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"The fish fairly sparkles with freshness--red snapper, imported yellowtail, Japanese mackerel, crisp fin of the fluke. The vinegared rice it rides on is warm, of course, the wasabi rationed in careful measure...

"As our order starts to arrive, I discover that I have created a modest kaiseki dinner of our own, a parade of tidbits each in a different piece of pottery or glass..." --Gael Greene, the Insatiable Critic,
New York, November 2, 1998

"There's something gratifying about a sushi joint whose customers are mostly Japanese. This midtowner, a standby for expat Tokyo TV execs (one of the owners is a television producer), feels even more like a find because of its remote, second-floor location. Inside, Chef Etsuji Oishi focuses on the details: A seaweed appetizer is sprinkled with gold flecks, yellowtail collar is grilled to perfection and plump pieces of raw fish are served on beautiful black lacquered trays. This is nothing like your local sushi dive." --Time Out Magazine, September 24-October 1, 1998

"While sushi lovers will be in paradise, I have some advice: if you can afford it, order the kaiseki meal ($80). This progression of perhaps eight or nine small, absolutely exquisite courses of temple food will include sashimi and sushi.

"...the meal was an eye-opener. I have never seen such precise composition, nor such care taken with textures and flavors. Nor had I ever tasted such fresh fish.

"Blinking as tears came to my eyes (I kid you not), I wondered why anyone found it necessary to apply heat to raw ingredients when such pleasures as this were available." --Jonathan Hayes,
Paper, October 1998
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